Bedford Cheese Shop

Founded in 2003 by Charlotte Kamin in Williamsburg before that neighborhood became what it became, Bedford Cheese Shop maintains a tight, well-edited selection across price tiers. The shop is small (both locations) which forces editorial discipline — they can't carry everything, so they choose carefully. Strong in American artisan plus selective European, with rotating wedges that change weekly. The staff are notably willing to give long, opinionated explanations of what's in the case; that's the editorial character of the shop. Mail-order is available but limited; the experience is primarily in-shop.