MakeHigher risk

Washed-rind cheese: the funky orange wheels

Taleggio, Époisses, Munster, Limburger — the sticky, orange-rinded, gloriously stinky cheeses. They are made by repeatedly washing the rind to cultivate Brevibacterium linens, and they are the most attention-hungry style a home maker takes on.

⚠ Read before you start

Home cheesemaking can cause serious illness when done carelessly — Listeria, E. coli, Salmonella, and (rarely) botulism are real risks, especially with raw milk, soft cheeses, and improper aging. The pages in this section are educational, not professional food-safety advice. Read the cheesemaking safety guide first, follow current local food regulations, and make at your own risk.

⚠ This is a higher-risk style

Like bloomy rind, washed-rind cheeses are moist and surface-ripened — prime conditions for Listeria, which (uncomfortably) tolerates the same salty, alkaline rind that B. linens loves. Pasteurized milk only. Keep your brine and washing cloth clean, wash on a strict schedule, and do not serve to anyone at higher risk. The aroma should be pungent and funky — not putrid or fecal.

Difficulty
Advanced
Aging
4–8 weeks
Attention
Wash 2–3×/week
Yield
1–2 wheels
Risk level
Higher
A washed-rind cheese starts much like a bloomy: a moist, lightly-pressed wheel. The difference is the affinage. Instead of letting white mold take the surface, you wipe the rind every few days with a salty brine (sometimes spiked with beer, wine, or a smear from an existing washed-rind cheese). The brine suppresses ordinary molds and favors Brevibacterium linens — the bacterium responsible for the orange color, the tacky surface, and the unmistakable aroma. It is the most hands-on style here: miss your washes and the rind dries out or the wrong organisms take over.

The make (in brief)

Make a moist, semi-soft wheel: ripen pasteurized whole milk with a mesophilic culture (many recipes add a touch of B. linens to the milk too), set with rennet, cut to ~½-inch, briefly warm, ladle or lightly press into forms, drain with flips over a day, then brine or dry-salt. The curd handling sits between a bloomy and a semi-soft — see the nine steps. Then comes the part that defines the style: the washing.

The wash schedule

  1. Make the brine

    A light brine: ~2–3% salt in cool non-chlorinated water, optionally with a few drops of B. linens culture for the first washes, or a splash of beer/wine for flavor. Keep it refrigerated; make it fresh weekly — an old brine is a contamination risk.

  2. Wash the rind

    In the cave at 52–56°F (11–13°C), ~90–95% humidity, wipe the entire surface with a brine-dampened clean cloth or sponge every 2–3 days, flipping the wheel each time. Use a dedicated cloth; don't reuse it between cheeses.

  3. Watch the rind turn

    Over 1–2 weeks the surface goes from pale to yellow to a tacky pinkish-orange as B. linens establishes. Keep washing; the regular wiping is also what keeps unwanted mold in check.

  4. Finish

    Ripen 4–8 weeks depending on size and how strong you want it. Wrap and refrigerate when it reaches the texture and pungency you like.

Funky vs foul
Washed rinds smell strong — barnyard, meaty, oniony. That is correct. What is not correct: a fecal or rotten smell, a slimy grey rot, a bitter or fizzy paste, or fuzzy black/green mold the washing isn't controlling. Those mean discard. The wash itself is your main hygiene control — if you can't keep the schedule, this isn't the cheese to attempt.

Sources & further reading

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